Termite treatments, Treating termites, Termite control IV
By Frank Reece
This is part four in a four part series of articles. Article one covered general information about subterranean termites. Article one also listed the five methods of termite control currently available. Lastly, it covered the first method of termite control in great depth.
Article two covered the second method of termite control in great depth.
The third article covered the fourth method of termite control in great depth.
This article will cover the last method of termite control. It will also give a brief, concise, wrap up of all four articles.
The next, and latest, method of termite treatment and control is baits/monitoring systems. This method involves using poisoned baits to draw the and take the poisoned food back to the colony. This method is used in hopes of destroying the colony completely, or at least by reducing the size of the colony. This method isn't intended to make a barrier around your structures. There are two types of termiticide baits. They use either IGR's otherwise known as insect growth regulators or slow acting poisons. By using baits to treat termites, you practically get rid of the need for liquid insecticide.
With using baits as a termite treatment you have two plans of attack. The first strategy involves putting cellulose material or untreated wood inside a monitoring device. Next, you place the monitoring device inside the ground around the structure you wish to protect. Once you find in the monitoring device, you then switch the bait. You replace the untreated wood or other cellulose material with poisoned material, known as "termiticide bait." You need to keep adding the poisoned bait for as long as the termited keep taking the bait away.
The product label needs to be followed in regards to inspection and monitoring of the bait stations. When trying controlling and treating with this method, you must ensure you have plenty of stations in use. If you notice that the poisoned bait is no longer being consumed, replace the bait with untreated wood or other cellulose material. If the show up again, replace the bait again with the poisoned bait. If you know you have an infestation, just put the poisoned bait in the stations and place them in the soil where the are present.
The second plan of attack using the bait method is to connect the bait stations directly to your construction elements where you know the are already eating your wood. These
types of bait stations are already baited with the poison and connected to the walls of the foundation. They should also be attached to floor joists, sub floor and various other locations similar to these. The then feed on the poisoned material instead of your wood.
As with anything in life, there are disadvantages and advantages to using these baits to control infestations. A big advantage to using these baits to treat is they allow you to treat structures that you aren't able to treat with liquid termiticides. You may not be able to use liquid termiticides because of a well, concerns over pesticide use, or you just can't get to the with the liquid. The downside to using termiticide baits is you can't expect immediate response. It will take some time. Also, this form of treatment and control of can be more costly.
To wrap up what was covered in these articles; the best termite subterranean termite control is prevention. Your preventative measures if at all possible should include the following: You need to check your structures annually for termite infestation. Look for the shelter tubes on or around your foundation. Look for shed wings or adult termites. Clean up around your structures.
Get rid of stumps, dead wood and any other cellulose material that is in contact with the ground in or around your structures, especially the crawl space. Get rid of grade stakes and form boards. To make it easier for your annual inspections you should keep your crawl spaces at least 18 inches above the ground. There should be at least 6 inches above the ground allowed for any exterior woodwork. There should definitely not be any contact between the soil or fill material and the building woodwork.
You need to ensure to keep excess water to a bare minimum. Remember, love moist environments. Make sure your run off water is sent as far away from your structure as possible. When building the foundation you should incorporate ventilation openings. These will keep pockets of dead air from forming. In turn, this will help keep the ground dry, and don't like dry ground.
Any structures that you build with wood and touch the ground should be made of pressure treated wood. Use treated wood to build as much of your structure as you possibly can, especially up to the first floor ceiling. Don't forget about fence posts, and supports. These also should be made of treated wood if they are touching the ground.
Frank Reece has been in the industry for 25 years. You can find his articles on www.linkmyarticles.com
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